October 5, 2009 Monday

Bolinas	Patch
9:00 am to 10:30 am	2' to 3', sets to 4'
Mid upcoming tide	Slight offshore breeze
Bright and sunny	Fun session

Conditions looked good this morning. The NOAA buoy report had a 7-foot swell at nine seconds. But within the seven feet was a 2.5 ft south swell at 17 seconds. Per Stormsurf, the south swell was from last week’s gale off of New Zealand. The Bay Area had just gone from a heat wave to a cold front. The change between high and low pressure produced three days of high winds. But this morning that was over. South swell, no wind and sunshine, things looked good. But the air was cold, high forties and the winds had brought cold water from the bottom to the surface, 51 degree water temp. I put of my gloves for the first time in months and that proved to be a good decision.

From the seawall at the base of the ramp I saw two surfers at the Groin and eight at the Patch. Both looked good. My surf companions were at the Patch: Marty, Hank, Russ and Hans. They were grouped together on the inside on the south edge of the reef and were going for the rights that began over the reef and peeled over the sand along the contour of the shore. The sets looked good but they were infrequent. After a long wait some waves came through. Russ caught the biggest one and rode it on his knees, something Russ often does. I decided to join my friends.

Russ got out and returned to his car while I was suiting up. He had a house project in progress thus he had to leave early.

With my board in hand I passed Hans who reported that it was much better earlier.

I met Hank at the north end of the seawall. He stated that it was fun, small, cold and it was better earlier.

I paddled out to where Marty was waiting for the next set. We chatted about things in general while we waited. Marty was substituting for a biology teacher on maternity leave and was having a great time teaching again. After a few minutes he announced he would catch one more and go in.

A set approached and I stroked into four-foot peak. I took off late, the wave broke on me, thus by the time I stood up white water surrounded me in both directions. I cut to the right and ten yards in front of me was Marty on his last wave trimming down a well-formed swell. I got a good view of his ride: bright sunlight, dark-green swell with a small wisps of spray coming off the lip and Marty perfectly situated in the curl coasting down the line. I waved good-bye to him as he paddled in.

I had come out to the Patch to be with my friends and now they were all gone. I paddled around searching for the best location. I headed north thinking I would catch a good left. I never happened. I paddled out and to the south hoping to connect on a big right wave. I never happened. Only those on the inside and on the south edge of the reef were catching waves. I moved over there but again no luck. The waves were infrequent and at least two others would be going for the same waves I paddled for. The tide was coming up causing mushy waves and backwash ripples were beginning to reflect off the cliff.

I thought I would take one in and head to the Groin to see how it was there. A set wave approached and broke on the outside. I caught the white water and belly boarded the wave until it reformed on the inside, I then stood up and rode it a long ways. I was now in the shore break south of the reef. I started paddling out when a three-foot shore break wall came in, I turned and stroked into it. I cut right, hung high in the wave, coasted under some white water into a steep fast curl, trimmed along it for several yards and pulled out over the top before the wave collapsed on shore. I ended up in knee depth water about ten feet from some nasty looking rocks; those brought in to prevent further erosion of the cliff.

I paddled out and here came another one and I did it again. Now I had found the spot. For forty-five minutes I caught one steep shore break after another. The high tide was pushing the swells towards the shore that would break over the reef, peel to the right and reform into steep shore break curls. Three others were out there doing the same thing. I sat inside of them. If they missed a wave I would turn and stroke into it. The tide kept coming up and soon the set waves were unloading on the shore. I knew it was time to call it quits. Besides the water was cold and my toes were getting numb.

On the beach I introduced myself to Bill who was getting out at the same time. He was of the three I was sharing waves with. We helped each other to climb onto and off the north seawall because due to the high tide the waves were smashing against the wall. Bill had a fun session and was glad to be back in the water. A friend had told him that last Saturday the surf was good but it was windy. Bill jumped onto the Internet, read the weather and surf reports and figured Monday would be his day: south swell, no wind and a smaller crowd. And he was right.

“So what gives you the opportunity to surf on a Monday morning?” I asked.

“Oh, I’m a landscape architect,” he said. “And there is no work.”

So Bill was here putting his forced free time to good use.