January 30, 2015 Friday

Bolinas	Patch
10:15 am to 11:30 am	2' to 3', sets to 4'
Mid dropping tide	NW cross breeze to no wind
Air temp: 65 degrees	Water temp: 55 degrees
High thin fog to bright sunshine	Fun session

Today was my third time surfing this week – Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Surf, waves and weather were pretty much the same all three days, and for the third time I brought my dog Cali.

Last night I was tired and I had already taken the dog to the beach twice this week. I could have easily talked myself out of going this morning. But conditions were good and I had four good reasons for going:

1. Kate needed the time to write. She was under a publisher's deadline to complete her latest novel, thus four to five hours without interruptions from me or the dog would be a big help to her.

2. Beach weather – the Bay Area had fallen back into drought conditions. A stubborn high pressure ridge sitting off the coast of Oregon or over the desert in Arizona has blocked low pressure rain producing storms from the West Coast and has forced the jet stream to direct cold Artic air over the middle of the country, causing severe snow storms and record low temperatures. But here in California all this week it had been sunny and warm with persistent east winds, making for perfect beach days.

3. Decent swell – per this morning's buoy report: 7-foot north swells at 14 seconds. Today's waves would be the same as Monday and Wednesday's – consistent 2 to 4 feet.

4. Mid-dropping tide – low enough to take the dog to the sand. Lately at high tide, the water was crashing up against the retaining wall of the house on the south side of the ramp, blocking foot access to the beach.

Conditions looked good; I had to go. I should take advantage of these drought days: sunny, warm air, warm water, no wind, glassy surface and consistent old man size waves.

The regulars were out today:

Frank the stand-up guy and Ray the retired fireman were toweling off from their sessions when I arrived. Hank and I checked out the waves from the seawall and then surfed together at the Patch.

Mary was coming up the ramp after when I went to check the waves. We had not seen each other for a couple of months. She enquired about my health. At our ages, whenever you don't see someone for a while, one thinks there must be a health problem. I assured her that I was fine.

Jack the Dave Sweet team rider and Jaime the starving artist were sitting on the seawall sunning themselves after their sessions when I walked by with my board in hand. Jack had his new Mystic Patch board. Jaime also had a new board, a custom Michel Junod based on Jaime's classic old Hobie single fin longboard. He had taken his Hobie down to Michel and asked for replica. Michel was familiar with the model, knew the shaper of the original board and created an exact copy of it. Jaime was stoked and was now getting the feel for the board. That's Jaime and Jack in the photo above, with Jaime in the lead.

Rob, Mr. Malibu, was suiting up when I passed by to check the waves. He showed me his new board, a big one, 10-foot Pearson Arrow, 23 inches wide, 3 3/8 inches thick, square tail and a glassed in single fin. Of course he ripped it up. I saw him on countless small curls walking the nose, hanging five, switching stance and executing big cut backs. For him it was just another fun day. He was also here Wednesday and Thursday.

David who used to ride the Becker board was out there this morning, his third time this week. I surfed with him Monday and Wednesday. David has completely recovered from his shoulder operation and was back to three or more hour sessions. He enters the water at 8 am and exits around 11. Today he stayed out to 11:30. Three and a half hours of constant wave after wave and paddling from peak to peak. Yes he is in good shape.

Greg O, the Branson parent, was out this morning. In his fifties he has become a real surf animal and a regular at Bolinas. I always see him out to the furthest peaks.

Robyn from Fairfax, who I had not seen in months, was out this morning. I asked her about her surfing son, who started at UCSB (my alma mater) this fall. He was doing fine. Robyn sat way outside waiting for the big ones and I watched her drop down a couple of head-high walls.

Chuck, the Bolinas local, actually spoke to me today for the first time in the twenty years that I have surfed here. He is not the talkative type. I was taking photos of the Patch from Terrace Road, Chuck was checking out the waves from his small pick-up truck. I asked him if he was going out. He said yes, it was a beautiful day and he needed the exercise.

Chuck rides a kneeboard and he is good. I watched him duck under the curl on a set wave and thought maybe I should take up knee boarding. I'm having difficulty standing up, my legs are weak and I'm not agile anymore. Most of my best rides lately are on my knees. I have considered stand-up surfing, where you are already standing when you catch the wave. But handling and carrying those big boards is a hassle. Now kneeboards are small, not much bigger than a boogie board. I watched Chuck closely as he skillfully hummed down some nice curls. I could do that; I should check this out.

What a beautiful morning and a great week of surfing. It is always fun to be in the water on sunny days with your friends.