Bolinas
|
Straight
out from the ramp and the Groin
|
9:10
am to 10:20 am
|
2'
to 3', sets to 3.5'
|
Mid
upcoming tide
|
Slight
onshore breeze
|
Air
temp: 60 degrees
|
Water
temp: 57 degrees
|
Low
overcast to patchy sunshine
|
Fun
session
|
I walked down to the beach
at Bolinas and was surprised to see four surfers at a peak straight out from the
ramp. This peak had reappeared after four years of being dormant. No one was
out at the Groin or the Patch. I have wonderful memories surfing this peak in
years past – beautiful A-Frames waves peeling in both directions. Its
reappearance has to do to shifting sands. Usually after winter storms the sand
pulls out to sea and today all of the big rocks in front of the seawall were fully
exposed. The sand must have reformed in sand bars 50 yards offshore forming
these fun waves.
I stood on the seawall with
camera in hand and watched Frank the stand-up guy, Mary, Jaime the starving
artist and one other surfer connect on some nice well-formed three-foot curls.
That's Frank on a good one in the photo above. He stroked into the peak,
cleanly turned right, let the wave build up and cruised a long ways on a
continuously peeling right curl. He ended up a few yards from the base of the
ramp. Mary also connected on three long right waves in the ten minutes that I
stood there.
"I'm going!" I
said to myself. Gentle well-formed old man peaks breaking in both directions
with long periods between sets for easy paddle outs. Jaime warned me that the
upcoming tide was impacting the waves and the backwash off the retaining wall
was increasing. The waves were better earlier – just my luck.
When I entered the water
Mary was exiting. The peak had shifted to the south and water was rushing up the
ramp. No one was out there. I paddled out to the peak with high hopes. But it
didn't happen. The deeper water caused the waves to break closer to shore and
the retaining wall of the house on the south side of the ramp. I managed to
connect on two decent rights, but it was obvious that the good waves were over.
I walked down the beach to
the Groin and paddled out around to wall to the first south peak. By now one
surfer was out there and two stand-up guys were in the Channel. The waves at
both locations were intermittent. I waited and waited and finally caught one
slow mushy wave. It wasn't happening here. Knowing that high tides sometimes
form good right peeling on the inside, I looked for them and they were there – the
Malibo rights had appeared. I caught four of them – fast, two-foot right
peeling curls. After an hour my arms were spent and I headed in.
On my way back to the car,
the peak at the base of the ramp was crashing into the retaining wall. I
chanced waiting for a lull to make a run to the ramp. I didn't quite make it
and had to stop and move out to confront an incoming wave. I pushed my board
over a wall of white water and braced myself to fight through the two-foot
backwash wave bouncing off the wall.
While out at the Groin at
stand-up surfer paddled over from Seadrift. It was Captain Kip, who had time on
his hands due to the port slow-down by the Longshoremen; he is a captain of a
harbor pilot boat. We chatted briefly, and he headed south while I moved in for
the Malibo rights.
The surf wasn't great, but
as usual after a dose of cold water and vigorous exercise, I felt great –
revitalized and ready for anything.
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