| Bolinas | Patch |
| 9:30 am to 11:00 am | 3' to 4', sets to 6' |
| High tide - 6.1 ft | Offshore breeze |
| Sunny and warm | Fun session |
It was the day after Christmas and the swell had spiked. A one-day Mavericks size swell materialized: 13 ft at 16 seconds. The NOAA buoy forecast predicted this swell a week in advance. It also showed that the next day the swell would drop to six feet at 12 seconds.
Weekend/holiday atmosphere struck the beach. All the parking slots on Brighton Ave were taken when I arrived. I had to park near the liquor store. From the overview above the Channel I counted thirty-seven people surfing; long boarders, short boarders, stand-up surfers, men, women, kids and even dogs in the water. Warm sunny day, offshore breeze and some nice shoulder high lines peeling off both left and right. Every one had three or four surfers competing for position. It didn’t look like fun.
I decided to head to the Patch were there only few people out. Good move. The waves were smaller and slower than those at the Channel. The crowd at the Patch was positioning for the rights. I went for the lefts and managed to catch several good long left waves into shallow water above the reef. After and hour and a half I had exhausted myself and worked my way back to the ramp.
It was a beautiful morning and I was anxious to get home because this afternoon I was going to pick up my new board at the Proof Lab Surf Shop in Mill Valley.
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