March 26, 2010 Friday

Bolinas	Patch
8:50 am to 10:45 am	2' to 3', sets to 2' to 3'
High outgoing tide (4 ft at 8:40 am)	Offshore breeze to no wind
Sunny with high clouds	Fun session

It was a beautiful spring morning: sunshine, blue sky with high white clouds. The wind had died and the surface glassed off at the Patch. Sitting there between sets, I looked down a line of eleven surfers patiently waiting for the next rideable wave. For a normal workday the number of people in the water surprised me. It must have been the recent change in the weather; surfers anxious to get back into the water after a month of storms, wind and rain.

At the far end sat Mary. She is a dedicated surfer who comes here to Bolinas multiple times a week regardless of conditions.

Next to her was David, who rides the Becker board. David had recently retired and taken up surfing. The surf passion has grabbed him and as if this was a job he now commutes an hour and a half to Bolinas three to four times a week.

Mark the archaeologist sat next to David. Mark conducts archaeology studies at construction sites for a major engineering firm as part of their Environmental Impact Reports. His current assignment has him writing a report at home thus allowing him to surf in the mornings.

Next came Matt. He was between work contracts and had re-discovered the fun of surfing after a five-week break due to bad weather and mountain biking.

Hans sat there waiting to take “one more wave” before heading off to work. He got in an early morning before work surf session.

Martha patiently watched the horizon for approaching waves. For the last two weeks she has come out to the beach nearly everyday.

Kathy the high school biology teacher had not surfed in thirteen days. Her school called a special day off because the basketball team was playing for the state championship today and Kathy took advantage of this for a much needed surf session.

Marty waited on the left side of the peak. He had retired four years ago, took up surfing, became hooked on the sport and now religiously comes here three to four times a week.

Frank the stand up guy slowly paddled back and forth. He had recently taken up stand-up surfing and was still considered a beginner. The surfing passion has bitten him and he now was in the water nearly every morning. As I paddled out, he proudly announced he had caught three waves and that for him it was already a good session.

Robert the Larkspur carpenter waited next to me. He usually sits way outside for the big sets, but today all the waves broke in the same area. He had recently finished a large job in the Napa Valley and was working on his own house and getting in a lot of surf time.

Doug the young botanist patiently sat in the line-up. A month ago he moved here from Maryland to take a position at the Audubon Canyon Ranch. He regularly surfed the east coast and was pleasantly surprised to discover Bolinas with its long gentle waves and the friendly crowd of regulars.

Away from the line-up on the inside sat an athletic woman who I have seen here several times before. Paddling out I observed her skillfully connecting on two good right curls on the inside peak.

Way over on the north side of the Patch reef three girls, beginners were having a great time rooting for each other.

Movement on the horizon interrupted my enjoyment of this beautiful scene. A set of waves approached and the line of surfers stirred with anticipation. Mary took off on the right side of the first wave, Marty stroked into the left side of it. Robert and Mark connected on the second one, and David and I caught the third wave of the set. There was nothing spectacular about the waves this morning just typical, well-formed, gentle, long-riding Patch waves. For two hours, all of us traded waves, soaked up the warm change in the weather and enjoyed each other’s company. We all agreed it was another great Marin morning.