August 27, 2010 Friday

Bolinas	Groin
9:00 am to 11:00 am	Consistent 3' to 4', occasional 5'
Low upcoming tide	NW cross wind
Sunny with fog on the horizon	Great session

After the good sessions I had last Monday and Wednesday I had high expectations for waves today. The south swell was still running but it was fading and today would be the last of it. The Internet data looked ok: 6 ft NW swell at 8 seconds, 3 ft south swell at 14 seconds, strong NW wind, upcoming tide and 56 degree water temperature. From the base of the ramp I saw six surfers at the Patch including Mary, Matt, and Russ and Frank on their standup boards. Doug, Creighton and Jeff the contractor were at the Groin going for three-foot fast peeling lefts. The waves were too fast; Jeff and Doug had trouble catching them and when they did the waves quickly closed out.

I walked down to the Groin wall to take some pictures. I was hoping that like last Wednesday the waves would get better as the tide came up. I stood there for ten minutes and only Jeff caught a wave. That’s him in the above photo with Creighton exiting the water. Watching Jeff get a decent ride and thinking about my good session Wednesday, I decided to go out.

Back at the car, Jack the Dave Sweet team rider was waxing his board. “Loren suit up, get out there. I’m going for those good curls at the Groin.” Jack was more optimistic than I was. As I walked down the beach with board in hand, I saw Jack knee paddle into a three foot wave; he jumped up, stayed high in the curl, stepped to the middle of the board, crouched down and shot through a fast section. Then I knew it was going to be a good session.

While standing at the Groin wall to take photos of Doug and Jeff, a fisherman arrived and set up. I had forgotten how elaborate fishing can be. He set down his bucket and backpack, stuck one pole stand in the sand and then another, and planted a pole in each stand. He tied weights to one line, baited three hooks, cast it out into the surf and set the pole in one of the stands. He repeated these steps with the second pole while all the time keeping an eye on the first pole, just in case something might strike. Now surfers worship the sun and dress to soak up as much sunlight as possible. Fishermen are the exact opposite. This fellow had on a hat with flaps, bib rubber overalls, sweatshirt and knee length rubber boots. No ray of sun would ever touch any part of his body.

“What are you going for?”

“Surf perch.”

“What else do you catch?”

“Halibut and salmon, but mostly surf perch.”

His line was close to the Groin wall. He talked about being careful around the surfers because they don’t see his lines. Sweeping his hand towards the ocean, he commented that the most important thing about fishing was being outside with the wind, the waves and the birds. Catching fish was secondary. He said all of this without taking his eye off of his poles.

Two hours later while exiting the water I saw him pull in a small fish. “You caught one. I saw it. What did you catch?”

“Surf perch. They are good eating.”

“How many have you caught?”

“Two!”

“That’s one an hour.”

“Who cares?” he laughed. “That’s not the point. I have had a great time being at the beach with the wind, the waves and birds and now I have two fresh perch for dinner.”

All that made sense to me. I too had a great time being outside, in the water and catching some great fast Groin curls. But I don’t have two perch for dinner.