January 21, 2013 Monday

Bolinas	Patch
10:50 am to 11:50 am	3’ to 4’
Mid outgoing tide	Stiff offshore breeze
Sunny with high clouds	Fun session

In one hour, I caught three waves: one I rode on my knees, one was a good wave and the third I rode laying down. In between I paddled for and missed numerous waves. It was my first time in the water since October 17^th – 95 days!

Reason was due to an internal infection that developed in the area vacated by my prostate that was removed last August 21^st. That operation went well and the doctor was confident that all the cancer was in my prostate and that none of it escaped into other parts of my body. Recovery went well and in two months (58 days) I went back into the water. I surfed twice that week and around November 1^st an internal infection hit me like a hammer and put me back in the hospital for four days while doctors “drained” the swelling. I watched the election returns from my hospital bed. Three weeks later my doctor claimed the drainage and antibiotics had killed all the bacteria, but to play safe he advised me to stay out of the water until mid-January. You never know what bad stuff could be floating around out there. Last week he gave me the final ok and today was my first day back.

This was my third time surfing in the last five months (153 days), and boy was I out of shape. My arms could barely push me through the water and my weak legs made popping up impossible. I have to re-learn all the surfing moves, which was why I was going for the gentle waves at the Patch. I had to let waves break on me to catch them, pop up to my knees to make sure I was in the waves and slowly rise to my feet. Humbled! But it was worth it. The scenery was beautiful, blue water, high clouds on the horizon and spray coming off the tops of the curls. And I had a great time running into the old gang. I had stopped at Stinson to check the waves and met Dexter the Bolinas local and DB the Safeway checker as they entered the Parkside for breakfast. In the Brighton Ave parking area, Russ the stand-up guy and Mark the archaeologist greeted me. Hank had just exited the water as I headed for the Patch. David who rides the Becker board and I shared the waves at the inside peak. After my session, I stopped in the 2-Mile Surf Shop to chat with Jaime the starving artist. As I was leaving, Martha from Sausalito pulled up with her classic Dewey Weber board. The good vibes were back – small no-fear waves, beautiful scenery and friendly companions.

Today was also a special day – the 49ers had defeated the Green Packers 28 to 24 yesterday and were now into the Superbowl. Peter Mel won the Mavericks Big Wave surf contest that was held yesterday in ideal weather conditions. Remnants of that swell were still hitting our coast. Today was the Martin Luther King holiday and the second inauguration of president Barack Obama. On my way to the beach I listened to his inauguration address and on the way home KPFA played Dr. King’s historic 1968 speech where he condemned the Viet Nam war. As I have often said, it was just another beautiful morning in Marin and this time I’m back.