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Bolinas
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Patch
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9:40 am to 10:55 am
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3’ to 4’, occasional 5’
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High dropping tide (3.5 ft at 8:30 am)
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Slight NW cross breeze to no wind
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Bright sunny day – heat wave
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Good session
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“Jack,
get back out there and I will take your picture.”
I
had just walked down to the Patch carrying my camera with the 400 mm lens that
I borrowed from Jacek. Jack had just completed a good inside nose ride, exited
the water and had wrapped the leash around his 9’ 6’’ classic Dave Sweet
longboard. I was kidding about going back out there, but Jack surprised me.
“Sure!”
and he unwrapped his leash and paddled back out to the line-up. He caught a
couple more waves and came in again. “My arms are exhausted after three hours.”
He entered the water at 6 am and had a great session. That’s him in the above
photo.
The
surf was good this morning due to a 3 ft south swell at 16 seconds from New
Zealand combined with a small NW wind swell. Per Stormsurf, this was swell S1 –
meaning the first significant south swell of the season with three more pulses
of energy arriving the next couple of days.
The
hot weather and the news about the waves on the Internet brought the crowd out.
Fourteen people were out at the Patch when I entered the water, 27 were out
when I exited and more were arriving when I drove off. The Bolinas regulars
were there early including – Mary, Jack the Dave Sweet team rider, Hank, David
who rides the Becker board, Marty, Jacek the tattoo artist, Bill from Berkeley
on his wave ski, Rob (Mr. Malibu), Susan who always wears sunglasses in the
water, Shu-Shu and stand-up guys Frank and Walt the photographer. Later on,
Paul from Mill Valley, Cort (part owner of 101 Sports in San Rafael) and
another friend entered the water on their stand-ups and proceeded to dominate
the inside peak.
Everyone
had a good time. The waves were plentiful, the water was warm and the sun felt
great. In a little over an hour I caught a ton of good right peeling waves,
exhausted myself and had that surfer’s glow for the rest of the day.
Click
on the link below see my photos of this day.
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