March 17, 2009 Tuesday

Bolinas	Patch
9:00 am to 11:00 am	3' to 4', sets head high
Low outgoing tide (0.5 ft)	Stiff onshore breeze
Overcast	Good session

So what are you going to be doing on your 70th birthday?

Above is Marty on his 70th coasting down a three-foot wall at the Patch on an overcast wind chopped day. Will you be able to say the same? That’s right; Marty was born on St Patrick’s Day. I’m 63 and I hope to be doing the same seven years from now.

Due to a super low tide the waves were breaking a half-mile out at the Patch. The take off point was a 150 yards beyond the outside rock, our normal take off point. Marty, Mary, Ray and Hans were out there. A high cloud cover blotted out the sun and a cold onshore breeze added to the chop of the already bumpy ocean conditions. I had to connect with Marty because I had a birthday card and surf photos to give to him. We had offered to take him to breakfast but his busy schedule wouldn’t allow it. I paddled for ten minutes and still wasn’t at the break. When I reached the outside rock I saw Marty off in the distance on wave at north edge of the peak. I paddled another five minutes before reaching the line up.

“Did you say hello to Marty?” Mary greeted me.

“No.”

“He went in,” she said. “He has things to do this morning.”

“No, that can’t be. I have a card and photos for him.”

I looked towards shore and saw Marty carrying his board towards the ramp. I had to catch up with him before he leaves. I turned and caught the first wave I could, which happened to be a decent left, rode it in as far as I could and began the long paddle in. Carrying my board I made the long walk back to the car. Marty was there toweling off. I got the card and photos out of my car, wished Marty a happy birthday, gathered up my board, made the long walk back to the Patch, paddled another half mile back out to the break. I sat there exhausted thinking in one hour’s time I have paddled over a mile, I’m tired and I had only caught one wave.

Fortunately conditions improved, the wind dropped and the sun broke through the clouds. Ray and I connected on wave after wave; Ray took the rights and I the lefts. My marker was the outside rock. I turned into one well-shaped left that went on and on and finally closed out in waist deep water. I looked for the outside rock to get my bearings. It was 50 yards south and parallel to me. I had to paddle to a point a 100 yards straight out from the rock to reach the apex of the peak. After repeating this for another hour I was spent. I slowly worked my in, paddling south, catching a wave, going straight as far I could and then paddling some more. By the time I reached the shore I was exhausted. As I drove off that morning, I thought what a good session and like Marty I hope to be here and in good health when I turn 70.