| Bolinas | Straight out from the ramp |
| 9:00 am to 10:30 am | 1' to 2', sets to 2.5' |
| Mid outgoing tide (0.6 ft) | Offshore breeze |
| Sunny, clear and cool | Fun session |
“Knee high curls, my kind of waves. Let’s go,” I said to myself when I saw Mary, Marty and Hank having a ball in these crisp, clean curls straight out from the ramp at Bolinas. Hank was in his element. That’s him in the above photo. The peak was holding up due to the offshore breeze and peeling right. Hank caught one after another and milked all of them to the shore.
Marty and Mary mentioned to me that they almost didn’t go out because the waves were so small. But the shape, the offshore breeze, the bright sunshine and the classic curls moved them to go for it. Good thing they did, because without watching them have fun I wouldn’t have gone out. Afterwards we congratulated ourselves for having made the decision to go. All of us caught several good waves.
“Marty, these are classic old man waves,” I said to him after we both had connected on a small well-formed one. “We can walk out to the waves. We don’t have to burn any energy to get to the line up. We can keep this up for hours.” I would grab my board by the nose and wade to the take off point, stand there until a set came in, turn around, jump on my board and with two strokes coast into another classic small wave. I did this for an hour and a half until the wind shifted and the tide dropped changing the beauty of the waves.
Bright sun, clear skies, beautiful classic waves, isn’t retirement great.
2 comments:
Loren, I've really enjoyed catching up with your blog.. As usual, great writing, great photos...nice to be part of this great surfing family..
Mary thanks for the kind words. I'm about to post my sessions in SoCal. At Torrance Beach there is a surfing family like ours that adopted me. We now have a SoCal connection. I'll post that one in a couple of days.
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