Leo
Carrillo State Park
|
“Secos”
– the Big Rock
|
1:00
pm to 2:00 pm
|
Consistent
3’ to 4’, sets head-high plus
|
Mid
upcoming tide
|
No
wind
|
Sunny
and warm
|
Spectacular
surf
|
I wrote this at Leo Carrillo
State Park, a few miles north of Malibu. In the old days, before the state
park, this was known as Secos (as in Arroyo Seco, Spanish for dry creek) – the
primo surf spot where they filmed the 1959 classic surf movie, Gidget, the movie that started the whole surf
craze in the early 60’s. The morning overcast had burned off, the bright sun
was out, the wind had died, the water had turned a deep blue color and the
waves were ideal – consistent 3 to 4 feet with occasional head-high plus
perfectly peeling fast right curls.
Why am I not out there? I
had already spent all my energy this morning at Surfers Point in Ventura, and
I’m on schedule to connect with my good friend Jay in Manhattan Beach in two
hours. Boy, was I tempted. Visions of my younger days flashed through my mind –
days when going out twice in one day was the norm. I decided not to push my
luck. Besides this was my opportunity to write-up this morning’s session.
For a half hour I took
photos of some specular rides. From a photographers point of view conditions
were ideal, perfect lighting – bright sunny day, blue skies and deep blue water.
The waves formed next to a large outcropping of rocks, they jumped up broke and
then peeled right along the contour of the beach, forming beautiful long lines
within a few feet of the shore. I stood at the water’s edge and clicked away as
surfers cruised down the curls within ten to twenty feet from me.
Click on the link below to
view my photos of these beautiful waves -
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